A Jenga of Cheese Straws

A quick and easy recipe for the ultimate in savoury snacks

Here I am, showing up like I said I would. I received such a cockle warming response to my Substack debut last week. Thank you for signing up to these regular newsletters and for your lovely messages of encouragement and anticipation for what is to come. I plan to dazzle you with all sorts of rural stories from my kitchen, garden and honesty box and take us on gossipy diversions back to my London talent agent days. As we potter along together, please feel free to tell me what you want more – and less – of. I am writing for me as well as you, but without you, I may as well be scribbling on the back of an envelope and using it as a fire lighter.

So, let’s get this party started with a recipe. Last weekend I went to a friend’s house for dinner and was asked to bring ‘nibbles’. This is the sort of job I was born to do. I could eat canapés for a living. Or I could write a book about canapés which would be a lovely way to make a living. Imagine pages crammed full of small bites with big flavours, using salt, spice, sour, sweet, kick and crunch to fire up the taste buds. There’s a beautiful snack world out there, but if I had to fight for just one it would be the humbly mighty cheese straw.

I have written about cheese straws in other places and messed around with various recipes in the committed search for the most melt on your tongue version. In happy conclusion, those made from the fewest and simplest ingredients are the savoury successes. There really is no need to experiment with different cheeses or add herbs, spices and seedy toppings, unless that’s your thing. If you want heat, sprinkle in a little cayenne pepper. If you want a more intense flavour replace about a third of the cheddar with parmesan or goats cheese. If you like additional crunch then scatter poppy seeds over the pastry before baking. You could even knock up a sour cream style dip or labneh to serve with them, although they aren’t quite robust enough for rigorous scooping.

I could make cheese straws in my sleep. I wish I did make them in my sleep and then I could wake up to a pile of them for breakfast. Although the ideal time to eat them is when the sun slips over the yardarm and the tonic hits the gin. They are at their best still warm from the oven, but I have reheated them the following day and nobody has complained. Just pop them on a baking tray for a few minutes in the oven. I can’t tell you what happens if you store them for any longer as there are never any left by then.

Cheese Straws

150g of mature cheddar, grated (finely if you can, but I often don’t bother)

100g plain flour

100g butter, cut into small cubes

1 egg yolk

Salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 200 (fan)/220C/Gas 7. Combine the grated cheese, flour and a little seasoning together in a bowl and then rub in the butter, as you would when making pastry. Once the mixture becomes more like breadcrumbs, cut in the egg yolk with a knife before bringing the dough together quickly with your hands. Roll it out onto a floured surface in the shape of a rectangle, around 5mm thick (or 1 cm if you like chunky straws). Cut into strips and place on a lined baking sheet, spacing them slightly apart in case they spread a little. Bake for around 8 minutes until they are golden brown, but do keep an eye on them as they can turn quickly. Take them out of the oven and leave on the baking sheet for 10 minutes to firm up before transferring them to a wire rack. Or pile them jenga style on a board. Or pop some straight in your mouth before anyone else notices.